Coat structure and method of making the same



May 22, 1951 A. NEWHOUSE COAT STRUCTURE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed April 29, 1948 INVENTOR. 45f NEW/{005E May 22, 1951 A. NEWHOUSE COAT STRUCTURE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed April 29, 1948 UNITED STATES OFFICE COAT STRUCTURE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Abe Newhouse, Brooklyn, N. Y.

Application April 29, 1948, Serial N 0. 24,044

6 Claims. 1

This invention relates to improvements in wearing apparel and is more particularly directed to an improved method of manufacturing coats, jackets and like garments.

It has been heretofore the practice to finish garments, in particular mens coats by felling the lining of the sleeve and the coat lining and to dispose between the inner surface of the coat lining and the garment body adjacent the shoulders thereof, inserts or pads which were attached to the coat lining and were made of canvas and various layers of cotton material. When such ready-made coats are being fitted in the store, it very often becomes necessary for the fitter to open up the sewn sleeve and innner lining of the coat in order to get access to the shoulder pads and to displace, alter or change the latter according to the figure of the customer. In a great many cases additional padding must be added to the shoulder pads in order to adjust the shape to the figure of the wearer. Thereafter, the coat and sleeve linings have to be sewn together again.

Such time-consuming steps entail various disadvantages among which may be mentioned that the coat very often loses its original form and that several sewing operations are required for alteration of the garment and replacement of stitches removed for access to the padding.

The present invention tends to simplify these and other steps in the manufacture of coats and like garments and has as one of its objects the provision of means extending along the upper half of the arm hole and sleeve lining extending around the same, whose lower half remains in felled and permanently stitched condition, whereby the shape of the coat and the relative position of the coat and lining parts are substantially maintained.

It is another object of the present invention to provide means facilitating ready change of the padding of the coat to conform the same to the required form and figure of the wearer.

Still another object of the present invention is to provide means permitting the operator or tailor to readily open up a part of the seam extending between the sleeve lining and the body or cloth lining of the garment, whereby the outer appearance of the garment will not be disturbed.

These and other objects of the invention will be pointed out in the following description and claims and illustrated in the accompanying drawings which disclose, by way of example, the principle of the invention and preferred modes which have been contemplated for applying said rinciple.

In the drawings:

Fig. 1 is a face view of the inside of a coat, jacket or similar garment, in the area adjacent to the arm hole;

Fig. 2 is a sectional view taken on the line 2-2 of Fig. 1, looking in the direction of the arrows;

Fig. 3 is a perspective view of one of the supplemental pads or inserts;

Fig. 4 is a View of the garment similar to that of Fig. 2, but showing the upper portion of the arm hole opened for the insertion of an additional pad, and

Fig. 5 shows the additional or supplementary pad inserted in place and the arm hole closed by permanent or final stitching.

In Fig. 1 is shown a garment, such as a coat or jacket, including the outer cloth Ill, within which is inserted the lining II in the known manner. Interposed between the lining II and the outer cloth, in such area as required and as known in this art, is one or more layers of stiffening cloth, indicated at [2, I3. At It, is shown the arm hole to which the sleeve I5 is attached, said sleeve including a lining l6, which has a portion of its inner end, or that located adjacent to the arm hole, turned over and permanently stitched down or felled, as indicated at ll. The upper portion or the inner end of the sleeve lining, or that part designated at It, is temporarily stitched or merely basted down, as indicated by the line of stitching H), such line of stitching extending possibly about half way around the arm hole.

Secured above the top portion of the arm hole, and located between the stiffening cloths l2 and I3 is the conventional or regular shoulder pad 20, held in place by permanent stitching 23.

When the coat is fitted upon a customer, and it is found that the regular or standard pad 28 as inserted in the garment is satisfactory, the garment is then completed by merely overstitching or permanently felling the portion of the coat lining II and sleeve lining I6 that is then connected by the basting stitching Hi. However, in most cases, additional padding is likely to be required in the shoulders of the garment, and in such cases, the stitching I9 is opened, thus allowing the portion of the lining l I located at the upper part of the arm hole to be spread open, as clearly seen in Fig. 4, to permit of the insertion of suitable additional padding without disturbing the original position of standard pad 20 and without opening permanent stitching 2|. Thus, the original shape of the garment or jacket is maintained. Such additional padding may be in the form of one or more extra pads of the character shown at 21 in Fig. 3. This pad 21 may consist of a central layer or core of netted material 22, encased in a cotton filling or padding 23, and enclosed in an outer paper skin 24, these elements being stitched together as at 25 to maintain the same unitarily in the proper pad shape. Of course, a pad of other construction might well be used with complete satisfaction.

When the supplemental pad 21 is inserted, as above described, permanent stitching or felling 26 is employed to take the place of the basting stitches 19, thus completing the encircling of the arm hole by permanent sttiching and holding the supplemental shoulder pad in place. Such stitching 26 can, if desired, pass through or engage the inserted extra pad and maintain the same in the desired position and hold it against shifting. Although not shown in the present instance, stitching 26 may be arranged to coincide with permanent stitching 2|.

I have herein described the upper portion of the arm hole having its elements temporarily stitched together to enable this portion of the garment to be opened to facilitate the insertion of additional padding, and it will be apparent that the opening of this part of the garment is also useful for permitting access to an already inserted pad for change or alteration thereto, or for the complete removal and replacement of the same should such alterations be desired or needed to enable proper fitting of the coat to be attained.

By the provision of a portion of the garment in a temporarily sewed condition, the opening up of this part of the garment is not only greatly facilitated but the possibility of damaging the structure of the coat by the ripping out of per manent stitching, or distorting or misshaping of the same, thereby resulting in improper fit is greatly minimized and the labor cost for the making of alterations is materially reduced.

Having thus described one embodiment of the invention, it is obvious that the same is not to be restricted thereto, but is broad enough to cover all structures coming within the scope of the annexed claims.

What I claim is:

l. A coat body provided with a lining, an arm hole in said body, a sleeve extending from said arm hole, said sleeve having a lining, a part of one end of the sleeve lining being turned over within the coat body and permanently stitched down therein, the permanent stitching extending substantially half way around the arm hole, the remainder of said end of the sleeve lining being temporarily stitched to the coat lining to facilitate ready opening up of such temporary stitching for insertion or removal of shoulder padding above the arm hole.

2. A coat body having an arm hole, a sleeve extending therefrom, said sleeve having a lining, the coat body having a lining, a shoulder pad fixed within the coat body above the arm hole, a basted seam joining a part of the sleeve lining to the coat lining directly below and independently of the pad whereby ready opening up of such basted seam will permit access to said shoulder pad changing the latter by insertion of additional padding, said basted seam extending only part way around the arm hole.

3. A coat body having a lining and an outer fabric, an arm hole in said fabric, and a sleeve extending from said arm hole, said sleeve having a lining stitched at one end to the coat body lining, a seam partly and permanently attaching the two linings together, the remainder of said seam being temporary to facilitate ready opening up of the remaining seam for access to padding interposed between the coat lining and the outer fabric of the coat body.

4. A coat body provided with an arm hole, a lining for said body, a sleeve extending from the arm hole, said sleeve having a lining, a part of one end of the sleeve lining being turned over within the coat body and permanently stitched down therein, the permanent stitching extending substantially half way around the arm hole and through the arm pit portion thereof only, the remainder of said end of the sleeve lining being temporarily stitched to the coat lining through the upper portion of the arm hole to facilitate opening up of such temporary stitching for insertion or removal of shoulder padding above the arm hole.

5. A coat having a body including an outer fabric and an inner lining, a sleeve having an inner lining, a portion of said sleeve lining being turned over inside of the garment in the armpit section thereof and permanently stitched down, a portion of said sleeve lining surrounding the upper portion of the sleeve above the armpit section being temporarily stitched to the lining of the coat body, whereby opening up of said temporary stitching will permit access to the shoulder portion of the garment between the inner lining and outer fabric thereof for the insertion, alteration or removal of padding in said shoulder portion.

6. In the method of assembly of a garment having a body, an inner shoulder lining for said body, a shoulder pad fixed between said body and said inner shoulder lining, a sleeve and a sleeve lining; the steps of permanently joining together said sleeve lining with said inner shoulder lining only adjacent the edge of the armpit of said sleeve, temporarily stitching said sleeve lining to said inner shoulder lining along the remaining edge of the arm hole of said sleeve and said shoulder lining adjacent said shoulder pad, inserting padding below said shoulder pad, and finally fixing permanently said sleeve lining on said inner lining along said remaining edge of said arm hole of said sleeve and simultaneously therewith said padding in position below said shoulder pad.

ABE NEWHOUSE.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 2,117,163 Haspel May 10, 1943 2,317,373 Giusefti Apr. 27, 1943 

